Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
